Sometimes It Works Out, Sometimes It Doesn’t
Reflections of a winter Garden, late light on a shivery February afternoon. A child grappling with Christmas sprouts still clinging to the stalk, quickly gathering the last succulent leaves from a scruffy bed of Spinach and the very young tops from the overwintered Kale.
Back to the kitchen for hot milk and an early years guide to seam butchery on that perfect haunch of Roe deer – shot and gralloched not 15 minutes from home by a trusted friend - my wide eyed assistant now prodding and poking, questions on food, family and friends interspersed with impersonations of his latest Superhero and the odd made up meandering story; the type that has no beginning or end, but concludes with the line “I’m just pretending Daddy”.
The topside and salmon cut are selected for dinner – roasted in a hot pan, supplemented by half a head of garlic and some fresh thyme. A good lump of butter is added when the colour is right, and basted over the meat whilst foaming. The whole pan goes into an oven warmed to 200 degrees C, and after 4 minutes, is brought back to the stove for a final baste and rest.
Meanwhile, Maris Pipers have been peeled, cut and brought to a steady simmer in salted water until tender, drained and pushed through a ricer. Be generous with the butter, always.
A quick devilled style sauce of bacon, tomato puree, sherry vinegar, honey, Tabasco and Worcester sauce, garlic, chopped shallots, good chicken stock and finished with double cream and fresh herbs.
And then to those greens – the sprouts, peeled and halved, cooked in a little foaming butter with additional chicken stock for a fondant style result – the kale and spinach are dunked in their own hot salty bath.
Rested, drained, sliced, warmed, everything to the table and devoured in quick time – last nights Rioja tastes even better now.
Ahh what could have been…. sometimes it works out and sometimes it doesn’t. Those wide eyes became frustrated and tear filled, ending the night with a supper of two Red Leicester topped water biscuits and a bowl of Shredded Wheat. Dinner was served minus the wine after 9, to a half starved wife who was ready for bed, and a cook with no light for good photos, and no patience for good plating. But I promise you it still tasted good.